Now, now.
A connoiseur though I may be, I haven't the income to indulge on really
expensive wines.
So while many of you out there may be dismayed over my choices, keep
in mind the following:
No matter how much you pay, it's still fermented grape juice.
Price and quality aren't necessarily related.
And, when you imbibe the stuff almost everyday (like I do), you want
to keep the costs down.
So most of the wines I'm listing here cost between $7 and $14... I've
arranged them by country/region.
AUSTRALIA
Jacob's Creek
They've produced some nice stuff. I recommend the Chardonnay and Merlot.
Especially the Merlot. The Shiraz had an unpleasant finish and would
have gone better with olive oil and salt, tossed in a bowl of Arugula...
They also have some special reserve wines which I've heard good things
about, but haven't tried 'em personally.
Lindemans
The thing about Lindemans is that they've all these different
bins. Bin 455. Bin 666. Bin 911. It's confusing, frankly. And I'm having
trouble remembering specific wines. Some are better than others. None
are as memorable as the Rosemont Estate (see below) selections.
Penfolds
These folks make a bunch of different wines, all of which pale in comparison
to Rosemont Estate (see below). You'll pay a few dollars more for the
Rosemont, probably, but it's well worth it. Penfolds do have a nice
Chardonnay, though. Citrusy.
Rosemont Estate
Great vinter. They seem to be flooding the market with a bunch of inexpensive,
award-winning wines. While I tend to think they invent some of the award
competitions just to be able to put the sticker on the bottles, many
of these wines are truly exceptional... Especially these:
Shiraz 2001, 2002
Shiraz Cabernet 2002
Chardonnay 2002
Pinot Noir 2002
Wyndham Estate
I just tried a bottle of the 2001 Shiraz. It's well worth
the $8 you'll pay for it. Rich. Supple. Intense.
McWilliam’s (Hanwood Estate)
Alright. I’m still a sucker for a good, Australian Shiraz. And
this is one of ‘em. The 2002, more specifically. A little more
acidic than my fave, Rosemont Estate, this McWilliam’s has hints
of plums, raspberries, and cloves in it. All very “civilized”
flavors. Which makes it hard to believe that Australia was originally
a nation of hooligans…
CALIFORNIA
I guess it's about time I put up some yank choices; even
if there is something decidedly 'less exotic' about American wines,
you can't dismiss them. Here are two I've enjoyed lately:
Avalon
The Cabernet Sauvignon stands all on its own. No food required. Many
an evening, I've retired to the bedroom with a bottle of this and drank
myself into a happy, boozy stupor. It's much better than Prozac!
Raven's Wood
Their Red Zinfindel is a wine to be reckoned with. Always
a crowd pleaser, it's big 'n bold, and, like the Avalon cab, is probably
a fine alternative to any psychotropic drugs!
CHILE
Conch Y Toro
I can't tell you a bunch of specifics about various Conch
y Toro grapes and vintages, but it's usually inexpensive and tolerable.
It's the kind of wine to take to a party, or to the house of an aquaintence.
It's also the kind of wine to drink when you know you'll be downing
several bottles.
Odfjell
The 2002 Rojo (Valle del Maipo Cabernet Sauvignon) is
a great buy for any underpaid person who happens to harbor a certain
proclivity for Cabernet Sauvignon. I drink this at least once a week!
Calina
Carmenere is an amazing grape that virtually become extinct in Europe,
despite having been used to make French wines for centuries. Turns out
the terroir in Chile is perfect for it, and it seems the Chileans have
picked up where the froggies left off. I originally discovered Carmenere
from another Chilean wine called ONA.
The flavors are big, bold, sublime; this is what red wine is meant to
be.
FRANCE
JP Chenet
This vinter's a bit inconsistant. The Chardonnay, priced at around
$7 is a great value. Just drink it COLD. Very cold. The Shiraz-Cabernet
is also quite good. Plummy. And also around $7. Stay away from the Merlot,
however. Its bouquet smelled vaguely of sweaty socks.
Domaines Perrin
They do a great white Côte du Rhône, a region that's undeservedly
less celebrated than, say, Bordeaux. While this white is great, I also
recommend trying a bunch of Côte du Rhône reds, regardless
of the vinter.
Barton & Guestier
Don't miss their 2001 Chardonnay. It's one of the best
French Chardonnays you'll find in this price range. With hints of melon,
apple, and citrus, it can easily take the place of fruit salad.
Roussy de Sales
The 2001 Chateau de la Chaize is an interesting wine.
It's a light red, with lots of fruit flavors. It'd be perfect on a picnic
with sandwiches and cheeses, but I doubt it'll hold its own against
heavier foods.
Joseph Drouhin
I'm drinking this as I write... It's a 2001 Burgandy from Macon Villages.
I won't remember it tomorrow. But then again, what will
I remember tomorrow? It went well with the veal I had tonight, but I'd
be happier with a Rosemont Estate Chardonnay.
Red Bicyclette
This vinter has gone to great lengths to promote itself to
all of the local hooch mongers here in New York. And while they do a
bunch of different wines -- Shiraz, Merlot, and Chardonnay, if I'm not
mistaken -- the very best offering is the 2004 Rose. It's cheap, and
absolutely tolerable over the course of several bottles!
PORTUGAL
Lately, I've reaquainted myself with what the Portuguese
call Vinho Verde. Which means Green
Wine. But this stuff is actually white, not green; they just call it
green because they drink it young. Here are two Vinho
Verdes that I've enjoyed lately. Both are crisp, light, and effervescent,
and go great with breakfast (or brunch, at least).
Casal Garcia
At $7 a bottle, an absolute bargain. It's very citrusy
and light. And very similar to Freixenet, the cheap Spanish campagne.
Only lighter.
Pavão
This is virtually identical to the Casal Garcia, except
in price. I think it's a few bucks more. But, at under $12, still a
bargain. E a qualidade desse vinho mostra que talvez os portuguêses
não sejam tão burros quanto os brasileiros dizem! (Sorry
about that. Brazilian joke. The Brazilians, you see, have made the Portuguese
the brunt of all their "stupid" jokes. So as Americans use
the Polish, and Canadians use the Nova Scotians, and the French use
the Belgians, the Brazilians use the Portuguese. Has something to do
with colonial resentments, I suspect. Or at least the Portuguese accent...)
Gazela
Another vinho verde, this. A little pricier than the others, but just
as light ‘n crispy. Nice looking bottle, too.
Varanda do Conde
And yet another fine vinho verde… Same deal: Light. Crispy. Gentle.
Delicate… An interesting blend of grapes, too. But all this complimentary
blather is getting boring, quite frankly. It’s much more fun to
insult wines than to bestow praise…
SPAIN
I'm such a huge fan of Rioja, that I try just about every one I can
afford. Here are a few of the best affordable ones...as well as a few
to avoid:
Marqués de Cáceres
They make a great Rosado, along with a decent Blanco and outstanding
Tinto (or however you say Red in Spanish) which smells just like violets.
Fausto VII
Another nice red Rioja. And at $9 a bottle, cheap.
Marqués de Arienzo
Good, cheap. But make sure you eat something with it.
Campo Viejo
Non-memorable. Try the Marqués de Cáceres
instead.
Visconde de Ayala
Absolute skunk juice. Stay away from this one.
Borsao
This is my new favorite... The 2002, Campo de Borja. So good was this,
that I bought an entire case. If I get sick of drinking it, I can always
add some brandy, mangos, and 7up and turn it into Sangria...
Vega Sindoa
The 2002 rosado. This is a worthy opponent to things like Paella, fruit
salad, and lemony chicken concoctions. And it rivals Marques de Caceres
in price AND taste. Which, when you think about it, is kind of absurd
since they’re both utterly cheap and totally expendable!
Codorniu
This is a fine example of Spanish Cava sparkling wine. It's made from
Pinot Noir, but done as a rosado. Fucking delicious and worthy of buying
by the case! (It's closer to $15, to be totally honest....but who cares?)
My oldest and best pal Adam Penn became a huge fan of this when we served
'im a couple glasses a few weeks back. Trust me when I tell you he's
total schtickler for quality: not only did he teach me the term "lager
lout", I never once stayed in a youth hostel on account of his
discriminating (and impeccable) taste!
Marqués de Riscal
There's a 2003 white Rueda that's definitely worthy of sampling.
If you can get it for less than $8, even better.
Ramon Cardova
This is a perfect (and Kosher) Rioja. If you don't end up drinking
it with a nice ribeye or picanha, make sure you bring a case or two
to your next Sedar.
Tres Picos
This is a Campo de Borja Grenache that you'll quite like. Mario
Batali has it on his Casa Mono wine list, where it's marked-up a good
300%. Buy it from your friendly, neighborhood hooch house and spend
only about $12, or $13. It's a really good buy; and if you do find yourself
at a table at Casa Mono, it's still one of the fairest priced wines
on the list.
Las Brisas
Another Rueda white, this. Exceptionally citrusy and perfect
for these hellish New York summers. Drink it with seafood, chicken,
or potato chips, even. (Lay's potato chips, please!)
El Chaparral
Vega Sindoa produces this is old vine Grenache, from the Navarra region.
(I'm referring to the 2002, by the way.) It's a really nice wine, if
you can find it. I originally had it at Batali's wine bar, Jamon, where
I became a total devotee. I'm saving a bunch of bottles at home; for
what, I don't know. But rest assured I'll break open a bottle if I ever
manage to produce a TV spot at my new gig!